Australia here we come!: June 2012

Friday 29 June 2012

14/6/12

Today was to be an easy day of not going anywhere. Mary-Anne cooked scones and we had them about 11am with jam and cream. Jim the Caretaker was invited but he failed to show when we started eating. Fortunately we saved him some and sure enough he turned up at 11.30am. He mustn't have had any for a while as it was like a shark feeding frenzy with bits of scone flying everywhere as he demolished what was on his plate. He stayed and chatted until about 1.30pm then left on his 4 wheeler. I tried to update the blog and the girls had a lazy afternoon.

15/6/12

Today we were booked in for a tour of the Port facility and iron ore loading operation at Cape Lambert. We arrived at the Roebourne Visitor Information Centre at 9.10am and viewed a promotional video produced by the Josef Gobbles of Rio Tinto. What a great company it is we though after watching the brain washing video. Then we boarded the bus and set off with a tour of Roebourne before we set off for Cape Lambert. The operation at Cape Lambert is massive. There are two kilometre trains being unloaded 24 hours a day. We watched a few carriages being tipped upside down to unload the iron ore. The unloading process and the loading of ships with the ore is totally automated from a control centre in Perth. Unbelievable!!!! Then we ventured up a steep hill from where we could view the whole operation from above. We could see the ships berthed at the wharf, 4 at a time and the ships waiting out to sea for their turn. We were taken on a drive under the conveyer belt gantries to a vantage point closer the the acutal wharf. It is the longest and highest wharf in Australia. It juts out to sea 1.3kms. We left the Cape Lambert loading facility and we were taken on a drive through Wickham, where most of the Cape Lambert workers live and play. Then it was on to Cossack and lunch. We had prepaid our lunch and it was waiting for us. We dined at the rear of the old Customs House building in a nice shaded court yard. After lunch we had time to have a quick look around which suited us because we had seen everything a few days before. Then we were driven back to Roebourne with a running commentary by the driver all the way. She was very knowledgable about the area and the different plants growing in the Pilbra. At the Visitors Centre I filled all our portable water containers while Karen walked to the Post Office and posted a parcel. We made our way back to Cleaverville where a beer was waiting for me.

16/6/12

Today we took a drive to Karratha and Dampier. We left early and the reason for the early departure was accidently let slip on the way to Karratha. The girls had heard there were markets at Karratha and they somehow forgot to tell me. I wonder why? We found the Visitor Information Centre at Karratha on the way into town and stopped and had a look around. Then we drove into town and the girls found a Woolworths shopping centre. Guess what!! We had to stop and have a look around. It was still early and there weren't many shoppers so it was easy to have a look around. I spied Mary-Anne looking at videos in a Sanity Store and gave her my most scarey look. She knows why!!! We left and drove around town and finally found what could be called a beach if you ignored the mangroves. Karratha is a big town and the housing estates seem to go on for ever as we drove towards Dampier. Right at the entrance to Dampier is the Red Dog statue and information bay. We stopped and photographed the famous Red Dog. Then we had a quick drive around town and the girls were dismayed to find there was no large shopping centre. We did however find a lovely beach and had a walk around. The wind was blowing very strongly and it made the walk a little uncomfortable. The girls had been told about a great fish and chip shop near the beach and we went looking for it. We all bought chips to suppliment our lunch and then we found a neat park near the Red Dog statue to eat. After lunch we drove back to the Karratha Visitor Centre and filled water containers before heading back to Cleaverville.

17/6/12

Karen was up early to message Brett and Tara for their birthday. (They are husband and wife both born on the same day but 3 years apart.) The girls had a lazy morning watching videos and eating chocolate and biscuits while I prepared all the ingredients to cook my black iron pan potatoes. It was still pretty windy this morning but after lunch it died down a lot. The sun was shining and the solar panels had a grin from handle to handle. About 4pm the black iron pan potatoes were cooked to perfection and we feasted like Louisianna hillbillies. It was GUUUDD!!!!!!

18/6/12

Today is our last full day at Cleaverville. We planned to have another restful day and just enjoy the location. Had a BBQ for lunch. In the afternoon we all packed up as much as we could to enable us to get an early start in the morning.

19/6/12

We left Cleaverville at 8.50am and drove to Karratha. We found the Visitors Centre and filled up with water. Then the girls restocked the pantries at the shopping centre before we left. We stopped at an un-named truck stop for lunch and later stopped at the Fortescue Roadhouse and refuelled. We arrived at Robe River Rest Area about 2pm to find about 12 caravans already there. We had quick drive around and selected a good solar friendly spot and setup for the night. During the afternoon more caravans kept arriving. Karen did a count and there were 28 caravans and campers by nightfall. Two caravans parked behind us and blocked my afternoon sun. I was not impressed!!! After tea we engaged in star and satellite spotting until it was time for bed.

20/6/12

We woke to partly cloudy skies and eventually joined the mass exodus from the rest area and headed south towards Onslow. We stopped at the Visitor Information Centre and found out about the two caravan parks in town. We selected the Beadon Bay caravan park and were alloted two adjoining sites. Onsolw is at the start of a gas boom and the caravan park was filled with workers and their vehicles. New accomodation blocks were arriving daily and being setup in areas where powered caravan sites had once been. The result will be that in a short time it will be virtually impossible for travellers to find a powered site at Beadon Bay caravan park. In the afternoon Karen and I went for a walk over the sand dunes to find the beach. The lady at reception had told us the beach is just over the sand dunes. What she didn't happen to tell us was that the sand dunes were about 500 metres wide behind the caravan park. We couldn't find a camel to cross the dunes on so we took the path at the back fence and headed towards a creek at the side of the caravan park. We discovered that the creek is quite large and that it was the mooring point for 3 large tour boats. We walked towards the mouth of the creek for about 200 metres but were stoppped by signs advising that the area was closed due to dredging of the creek. It was a long walk home without even seeing the beach. After we got back to the caravan we found that Mary-Anne had woken up and was rearing to go for a drive around town. We visited the beach and the girls cleaned the beach of shells. I bet the Council will be pleased. Then we drove to Sunrise Beach and had another walk along the beach. There is a War Memorial there with a large sculpture of the rising sun hat badge. It is positioned so that the rising sun on Anzac Day shines directly through the badge at dawn. Karen and Mary-Anne found the Ian Blair Memorial Boardwalk condtructed over and along the sand dunes and they suggested that we walk it. What they didn't tell me was that it was two kilometres long. After hobbling on one and a half legs for what appeared to be an eternity I was delighted to find an inscription etched into one of the floor boards advising I had just walked half the length of the boardwalk. Being a true hero I continued on and eventually met up with the girls, who had left me to be eaten by sea gulls and sand rats if I collapsed, at a delightful picnic area over looking Sunset Beach and the salt loading jetty. While was regaining my strength I noticed a small cat standing under a she oak tree about 20 metres away. To my amazement it saunted over to me when I called it. It was not wild as I expected and must have been abandoned recently. When Karen came back from her walk along the beach and saw the cat sitting on my knee she made it quite clear it was not coming with us. Reluctantly I left 'Onslow' at Sunset Beach when we started our long walk back to Sunrise Beach. We drove back into town and drove up and down a few side streets to check out the houses and facilities. We found a sign pointing towards 4 Mile Creek and decided to investigate it. Well bugger me after about a 2 minute drive we arrived at the delightful picnic area at Sunset beach and 'Onslow'. The road continued on so we followed it. It past quite close to large stock piles of sea salt waiting to be loaded onto a ship. Eventually we arrived at 4 Mile Creek and another beach. There was a nice looking swimming area in the creek that looked devoid of crocodiles, sharks, sea snakes and stingers maybe. It was a bit cool so we decided not to test the water. It was past stubby time by now so it was code 2 back to the caravan park for a well earned beer or ten.

21/6/12

It was an early start today so we could see all that Onslow had to offer. Our first port of call was Old Onslow Town. This was the original Onslow established on the banks of the Ashburton River in about 1890. The town was reestablished to its current location in 1925 after the river silted up and ships could not enter the port. On the way we passed the 3 Mile Camping area which is right on the Ashburton River. There were some great free camping spots overlooking the river but the corrugated road would probably destroy our caravans. At Old Onslow there is nothing left except a few faded signs telling visitors what was once built on that particular site and the ruins of the stone Police Station ,Court House and jail. We drove back over the corrugated dirt road to the highway and stopped at the termite mound viewing area on our way back to town. Mary-Anne was convinced there was an elevated viewing area ahead and I tried to tell her it was just a track over the sand dune and not a viewing area. I know how obstinate my sister can be so when she started to rally drive towards the sand dune I just sat there mute until we nearly rolled over near the top of the sand dune. Also unlike most people I know my sister has a foul mouth and can make a wharfie blush with one of her unlady like verbal triades. Once we stopped the driver's door flew open and so did the foul mouth. God sent a thunder bolt in shock and I blushed too when we heard the following words being spat out with the venim of a viper: 'Alright I'll take a BLOODY photo from here.' I made a mental note for the future when the Saint Appointing Investigators from the Vatican are interrogating me about anything I may know that would be evidence to preclude Mary-Anne as unworthy of being appointed Australia's second Saint. Boy after this trip I hope the Investigators have plenty of time I have so much to tell them. With the termite awdeal out of the way we drove to Sunset Beach and had lunch in the wind and with 'Onslow' as company. I still wasn't allowed to bring him home. It was getting late so we went back to the caravan park. I did a little panel beating to one of Mary-Anne's caravan support legs and checked her tyre pressures. Then it was beer and tea for me in that order.

22/6/12

We left the caravan park at about 8.50am and drove to the dump point and emptied our toilets before refuelling at the Shell garage. Karen shouted us all pizza and chips for breakfast. We left town driving into a Force Ten head wind and drove about 180kms to Western Australia's largest and most solar panel friendly rest area called Barradale on the Yannarie River. We set up camp and enjoyed a wonderful afternoon of sunshine and for some reason no wind after we stopped driving.

23/6/12

After leaving Barradale Rest Area we again battled headwinds all the way to Exmouth. We stopped at the Visitor Information Centre where the girls booked and paid for two sites at the Lighthouse Caravan Park. We were advised that all the beach camping sites in the Cape Range National Park were full so the caravan park was the only alternative. On the drive to the caravan park we passed the Harold E Holt Naval Communication Station from which the Unites States Navy communicates with all their nuclea submarines. The Station also played a part during the first and subsequent moon landings in the 60's and early 70's. After reversing both caravans from the narrowest shrub lined road in the world into their palacial sites we took a drive around town. The girls found two IGA supermarkets and had to have a look. Then we drove past the Marina and adjoining canal estate to Pebble Beach. It would be a great beach on a perfect day but with 50 knot winds blowing it was great to get back into the car. On the way back to the caravan park we took a detour and visited the site of the Mildura Ship Wreck. The Mildura ran aground on a reef about 20 metres off shore in 1907. The Captain must have been drunk, blind or both to be so close to land with such a large ship. Forunately for him no human lives were lost. But 390 bullocks on board drowned. An investigation found the Captain was found culpable and suspended him for 8 months. Then we drove to the Vlaming Head Light House which is situated high on a hill above the caravan park. The 360 degree views from the hill are spectacular. Also near the light house is a memorial for the radar station that was sited on the hill during WW2. As is usual in the North West of WA a cyclone came through, this time in 1945 and destroyed the radar station.

24/6/12

We left the caravan park early for a day trip to Cape National Park. The wind was still blowing wildly and the drive down the road to and through the park was great with a tail wind. Our first stop was at the Ranger Station and because we have a WA National Park sticker we got in for free. Then we stopped at the Tantabiddi boat ramp and visited Ned's camp site which was close by. There were a few trees but the wind was terrible. After Ned's Camp we visited Tbone Bay, Milyering Visitors Centre, Oyster Stacks beach, Sandy Bay, Bungarra Beach. At the end of the road is Yardie Creek and because of the wind we had lunch there in the car. Karen found there was a walking track up Yardie Creek to a lookout. The walk was only 500 metres. What she failed to imform Mary-Anne and I was that there was also a 1.7km goat track walk where you could view Yardie Gorge. Off we went on another Cliff Young shuffling walk up hill and down dale, over trecherous sharpe lime stone rocks and ascending slippery rock strewn accents until we reached out goal and viewed Yardie George in all its grandeur. After successdfully making our way back to the car we drove into the wind and headed for home. On the way we stopped at Pilgramunna Beach because a couple had told Karen they had seen a black footed wallaby there. All we saw was wind and no wallabies. They had probbly been blown to Christmas Island. We also stopped at Mangrove Bay because Mary-Anne has a thing about mangroves. She made the excuse that there was a bird hide there and she wanted to view some birds but I know the real reason. The birds had been blown away to and all that we saw was a lonely sea gull. After Mangrove Bay we stopped at Wobiri beach. Karen found a toilet but wouldn't use it when she saw a spider web at the bottom of the bowl. I think she would have been safe because the spider would have suffered the same fate as the birds and the wallabies. Next stop was at the Jurabi Turtle Centre. This Centre is on the sand dunes behind the beach where turtles come to lay their eggs. There is information on the life cycle of sea turtles and displays of stuffed foxes and turtles. After a windy day at the beach we went back to the wind at the caravan park.

25/6/12

We left windy Exmouth after filling up with water at the Visitor Information Centre. On the road out of town we stopped at a memorial dedicated to those brave men of 'Z' Force who participated in Operation Jaywick. 'Z' Force was a commando Unit established during WW2 and they sailed in an old wooden Indonesian fishing boat called 'Krait' from the site of the memorial in 1943 then rowed some 20 miles in kayaks to plant limpet mines on the sides of Japanese ships moored in Singapore Harbour. The first mission was a success and 37,000 tons of shipping was destroyed. From the memorial we drove with a strong tail wind to Coral Bay. We wanted to sail in a glass bottom boat but it was so windy we decided against it. We checked out the caravan parks but decided to give Coral Bay and the wind a miss and we drove to and spent the night at a rest area called Lyndon River Rest Area on the way to Carnavon.

26/6/12

We had a few things to catch up on and it was decided we would spend another day and night at Lyndon River rather than spending money at a caravan park to sit in the vans all day doing our catchups. It was not all bad as Karen and Mary-Anne cooked pikeletes and we had them with jam and cream.

27/6/12

When we woke this morning it was cloudy and windy and just as we started to packup it started to rain. Everything was thrown in and we were on the road by 8.30am. After a short drive we stopped at the Minilya Roadhouse for a comfort stop and I had a bacon and egg toasted sandwich for breakfast. The rain had stopped by this time and we continued on to Carnarvon. Our first stop as usual was the Visitor Information Centre. The girls found the prices for all the caravan parks and then we drove around and checked them all out. We settled on the Carnarvon Caravan Park. It was not the flashest but it was very econmonical and the caravan sites were huge. While unpacking Karen let out a scream that could only mean one thing. She found an eight legged hitchhiker sitting on my foldup chair after she carried it out of the van. She was horrified to think it had been on our bed the whole day. Luckily there was a thong handy and it was dispatched quickly. Mary-Anne could not get any water to flow from her tap when it was attached to the town water. After undoing every connection from the front of her van to the sink the blockage was found and cleared and the water flowed. Next on my maintenance agenda was our air conditioner. It had been making a clicking noise for some time and I decided to have a look at it. I worked out how to gain access to the circular fan and found a small piece of wood stuck in it. It is still not 100% but it is a little quieter.

28/6/12

This morning we went for a drive around Carnarvon and accidently found the airport and the small boat harbour while looking for the toilet dump point. Then we drove out along Carnarvon Road and visited the HMAS Sydney ii memorial. 645 men lost their lives when the Sydney was sunk by the German Raider ship Kormorant in 1941 off the coast of Carnarvon. Memorial plaques for each sailor line both sides of Carnarvon Road for about a kilometre. Then we drove to the One Mile Jetty and paid for a ride on the Coffee Pot Tram that took us all the way to the end of the jetty. As the name suggests the jetty is in fact one mile long or 1.6 kilometres in the new measure. We found this out on the walk back which took about an hour. Then we visited the Light House Keepers Museum and the Railway and Shearing Hall of Fame museum. Both were fascinating and full of artifacts from the past. There was even the remains of a life boat from the Kormorant on display. After a full day of site seeing it was good to get back to the caravan park and relax. Mary-Anne and Karen had arranged for a young french girl to come to our caravans and cut our hair. She arrived at 5.00pm and when she left about an hour later we all looked smick.

29/6/12

Today we visited the Bumbak Plantation and took a walking tour around the orchard. The lady leading the tour was very informative. We learnt that Carnarvon is the fruit and veggie bowl of Western Australia. They grow everything here except apples. Then we took a drive on the loop road that runs through the agriculturial area which is affectionately called by locals as the 'Fruit Loop'. We drove into town and found a lovely park right on the water front and had lunch. And as usual the seagulls turned up and tried to eat my sandwiches. Then we went to Wollworths and the girls did a little shopping. From there we went to the Jaycar shop and Mary-Anne bought a replacement microphone for her 2 way and a UHF antenna for her TV and I bought a replacement solar controller for the one that died in the Prado. Back at the caravan park I spent an hour putting Mary-Anne's antenna together but she still could not get any reception. I think there is a problem with the wiring in her van or she may need a booster. It is a work in progress for me.

The old Cossack Court House

Sunset at Cleaverville beach

The Red Dog statue at Dampier

The Anzac Day sunrise Memorial at Onslow

View of our caravan park and Submarine radio towers from Vlaming Head Lighthouse Exmouth

Yardie Creek Gorge in the Cape Range National Park

The Coffee Pot tram on the Carnarvon One Mile Jetty

The kitchen in the Light House Keeper's Cottage at Carnarvon

Friday 15 June 2012

31/5/12

We left De Grey at our usual time and drove to Port Hedland. On the way we stopped at 2 roadhouses. Sandfire Roadhouse was the first and we only had a look and used the toilet. The next was Pardoo Roadhouse. We both refuelled and for a small donation to the Flying Doctor we refilled all our water tanks. We had lunch before leaving and driving the last stretch to Port Hedland. Our first stop was the Coles Shopping Centre in South Hedland. We had run out of meat and frozen veggies and Mary-Anne had to restock as well. It must have been pension or dole day as there were drunks everywhere in the car park as well as the shopping centre. It was worse than Fitzroy Crossing, Elliot and Tennant Creek put together. We survived the shopping trip and went to Port Hedland. Why they don't call it North Hedland I can't work out. We found a Big 4 caravan park called Cook Point Holiday Park and booked for one night. For some unknown reason Mary-Anne didn't get the most scenic site and it must have been our turn for the first time in 3 months. The lady at reception told Karen and I that our spot over looked the water. We were thrilled ocean views!!! The water turned out to be a tidal creek lined with mangroves and mud flats running back to the main road. Well at least it was a view. In the afternoon we drove around Port Hedland and visited the wharf area where iron ore is loaded onto huge ships. We counted 27 ships lined up out to sea waiting their turn to load up. Karen and Mary-Anne found another shopping centre, this time with a Woolworths. 'Oh we must stop and have a look,' was blurted out by both of them. God give me strength!! After another shopping trip we went to the Port Lookout and this is where we counted the ships waiting to enter the port. Then it was back to the caravan park and Happy Hours and for ME.

1/6/12

We packed up and left the caravan park and drove to Woolworths so the girls could indulge themselves once more then we hit the road and headed for Marble Bar. On the way we stopped for lunch at Des Streckfuss Rest Area and found the filthiest toilet on our travels yet. After lunch we continued on and eventually arrived at Australia's hottest town. In 1922-23 Marble Bar had 160 continuous days of temperatures over 38.3C degrees or 100F degrees in the old scale. We had a drive around town and were very impressed. It is an old gold mining town but it is very neat and tidy. We stopped at the Visitor Information Centre and were met with a smile by a very friendly and informative young lady. We left the Visitor Information Centre and drove a short distance to the only caravan park in town. What a change from the sardine setup in Port Hedland. There were not many caravans and we had the choice of spots. After tea I could smell something very strange coming from the front boot of the caravan. At first I thought the CTEC battery charger had burnt out but it turned out to be a dead deep cycle battery giving off sulphur fumes. After a quick re-arrangement of batteries the caravan lights came back on. We met our neighbour from accross the road, Graham who is a geologist. What a knowlegable bloke he was about all the different rock formations we have seen in our travels. One of the mind blowing things he explained was about granite. He said granite crystalises anywhere from 5 -8 kilometres under the earth surface. So any granite we have seen on or above the surface was once 5-8 kilometres underground. That is a lot of erosion and would have taken millions of years to happen.

2/6/12

Today we went for a drive and saw the old Government buildings that house the Police Station and Mine Wardens Office. Then we ventured a short distance out of town to see the place that gave Marble Bar its name. First we stopped at Chinamans Pool which is a permanent water hole in the Coongan River. It would be a great place for a swim and BBQ in summer, if you could find some shade. Then we found the Marble Bar which is actually a Jasper Bar. The first people to come to Marble Bar thought the bar was marble, hence the name. If you pour water over the Jasper the different colours stand out. We had a walk all over the bar then we went to a place not far away where you can collect some jasper to take home. The girls went berserk and wanted to take it all before I put my foot down and brought them back to earth. From the jasper deposit we drove to the Flying Fox lookout. This is the place where town supplies were ferried accross the flooding Coongan River in days gone by. Next we visited the Comet Gold mine museum. It was filled with old mining equipment, photos, historical information and rocks of all kind. The volunteers manning the museum were more than willing to show us around and explain what different items had been used for. We left the museum and had lunch in the RSL park. It had a talking toilet that played music and over in one corner of the park was an inpressive War Memorial. We eventually arrived back at the caravan park and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon.

3/6/12

We packed up again and drove to the Marble Bar Roadhouse and refuelled both cars. Then we were off but not for long as we visited the solar farm on the outskirts of town where 60 -90 percent of the towns power is generated. We had another stop to photograph impressive metal signs that lined the road into town. Finally we were away and into the strongest headwind we had encounted so far on our trip. It would have been good to have a fuel tanker travelling with us on the way to Des Streckfuss Rest Area. We finally made it to the rest area with some fuel left and set up camp in a great solar panel friendly spot. Early in the evening we watched the sunset and the almost full moon rise. Then the rest of the evening was spent star gazing.

4/6/12

We decided to stay another day at the rest area and I cooked a roast pork for tea. Karen made her special stuffing and after the roast was cooked the potatoes, pumkin and sweet potatoes went into the oven. What a feast we had for tea that night. While we were eating the full moon rose and then we witnessed a partial eclipse of the moon. We also saw 4 satellites, 1 falling star and 2 planes. What a life!!!

5/6/12

We finally made an early start this morning leaving at a record time of 8.20am. We drove to South Hedland and the girls did grocery shopping while I bought a new deep cycle battery and connected it up. Then we refuelled and drove to Indee Station which is a working cattle station which has a small caravan park setup but no power or water. It does have toilets and showers and free washing machines. The washing machines copped a flogging when Mary-Anne and Karen got organised. Later in the evening I saw a person up a small hill talking on his mobile phone. Karen and I walked up a higher hill and got reception and two messages. Both were from Brett, our son who advised us that Tara, his wife had given birth to our first grandchild, Stella Peyton Nolan at 3.28pm that day. She was 53cm in length and 8lbs 5ozs at birth. There were hugs all round at the great news and the fact we are finally grandparents but a little sadness as well knowing we are so far away and can't afford to fly home for a visit. Mary-Anne was over the moon at becoming a great aunty for the first time as well.

6/6/12

We woke to a cloudy sky and the threat of rain so it was decided to leave as we had to drive 8kms over a dusty corrugated road to get back to the highway before we could start our journey to Karijini National Park. We didn't want to be slipping and sliding on the road if it started raining. Not long after we reached the highway we got signal on our phone and a message came through. It was from Brett and he attached a photo of Stella. I almost ran off the road trying to look at the photo so we decided to pull into the first truck stop we could find so we all could have a good look at her for the first time. After a lot of oooooos and rrrrrrrrrs it was back onto the highway and our next stop was at an unnamed rest area that had a toilet. The girls screamed with horror when they saw the state of the toilet and both refused to use it. What a pair of wussers I had no trouble. We eventually stopped at Bea Bea Rest Area for lunch. It was showering, windy and cool so we ate in Mary-Anne's caravan. After lunch we drove to Auski Roadhouse where we refuelled. Then drove the last part of days trip to Karijini National Park. We found the Visitors Centre and had a look around. Then drove to the Care Taker's site at Dales Camp Ground and paid for 3 nights. It was still overcast and showery so I wanted a generator friendly area and got it. We set up and out came the generators to power up our batteries.

7/6/12

It was still overcast this morning and the generators were switched on again to help the batteries. We went for a walk to Fortescue Falls and then it was down a thousand steep steps to the bottom of the gorge to start the long and arduous walk to Circular Pool. Karen must have been a mountain goat in a past life as she flew ahead of Mary-Anne and I. We watched in awe as Karen leaped from boulder to boulder along the gorge floor. There was some spectacular scenery with huge boulders, cyrstal clear water in the creek and majestic trees that have defied flood waters for many years. We finally made it to Circular pool but not before Mary-Anne succumed to gravity and fell on her bottom negoiating one slippery rocky decent. She survived but for the first time in her life there was dirt on her pants. We told her there was none otherwise she would have run back to the caravan and changed them. Circular Pool was very nice. There are high rock walls on three sides and a crystal clear pool of water that invited the hardiest of back packers to have a swim. The ones we saw go in didn't stay in for long. Mary-Anne remarked that she had never seen blue back packers before and she wondered what country they came from. I think the water temperature was just above freezing so that may explain it. From Circular Pool there was only one way out and that was up. Mary-Anne and I took one look at the so called steps going up and up and for a moment we thought we would spend the rest of our lives on the gorge floor. Reality hit home when we saw Karen bounding up the steps like a startled gezal and we followed like two hamstrung turtles. About 40 minutes later Mary-Anne and I crawled over the ledge at the top of the gorge and fell prostrate onto the red dirt. We lay there for what seemed like an eternity, but was only 2 minutes and we could feel life coming back into our legs and lungs. The girls were feeling fit after a few more minutes and decided to walk to Fern Pools. This walk entailed walking all the way back to where we started at Fortescue Falls and walking down the steps again then turn right and walk for a few hundred metres then return and walk back up the steps again. I decided that a shorter walk back to the caravan was more prudent and bid farewell to the girls. The days effort had taken its toll on my right knee and after a hundred metres I was almost walking on one leg. The track just kept going and going and no caravan or tents could be seen in any direction. I found a dirt track that I thought should lead me to the camping ground. It was the longest dirt track I have ever walked on. There were no foot prints or wheel marks. The world started to spin and the shrubby trees seemed to be grabbing at me. I thought I've got to get out of here and turned around and headed back to the sealed road that seemed to lead nowhere. As I hobbled along I heard a COOEEE!! coming from behind me. I turned and there was Karen and Mary-Anne stumbling along the same track. They had somehow walked off the rim track on the way to Fortescue Falls and had just as much idea of where they were as I did. We made it back to the sealed road and turned left. After half an hour we made it to the Care Takers Office. There the girls paid for another night and got directions to our camp site. It was three happy campers when the caravan came in sight. I could smell a beer, Karen could smell a rum and Mary-Anne could smell a cup of tea all from a hundred metres away. We regained strength and almost sprinted the last few metres to the fridge and kettle respectively. To say we all slept well that night was an understatement.

8/6/12

Everyone had a sleepin this morning except me. I woke at 6.10am as the sun was just peeking over the horizon. I couldn't help myself. I had to check the state of the batteries and see if there were any clouds about. The batteries were fine and there were not many clouds. Later in the morning Karen bounded out of the caravan as fit as a fiddle and a short time later Mary-Anne emerged from her van moaning and groaning about sore leg muscles. We had a quiet morning until the girls decided to attempt the Fern Pools walk again. I stayed at camp and updated the trip diary. There was no way I could have walked any further than the toilet today. Around 1pm after the girls returned from a successful walk to Fern Pools we had a cooked lunch and did bugger all for the rest of the day. About 4pm Mary-Anne and I drove to the water tank and refilled all our 25 litre white buckets.

9/6/12

Today we took a drive to the town of Tom Price which is only about 90kms away from Karijini National Park. Tom Price is a mining town where people working at the iron ore mine live. We visited the Visitor Information Centre and found out the mine tour was booked out. Karen did some shopping at Coles while Mary-Anne caught up with all her 6 children by phone. After that we filled water containers with good drinking water and then had lunch in a beautiful park next to the Visitor Centre. We took a drive around town and discovered thatTom Price is a very neat town but unfortunately has few amenities. Then we ventured to the Tom Price Caravan Park where we refilled 4 gas bottles. It is the only place in town where gas bottles can be filled. There was not much else to do in town so we made our way back to Karijini National Park.

10/6/12

Today we packed up and drove a whole 125kms to the Auski Roadhouse and Caravan Park. We decided to have one night in a caravan park so we could replenish our tank waters and fully charge our batteries, wash and the girls could have long hot showers. Luckily for us we did decide to stay as the winds picked up and a gale force wind warnings were issued for the area. It would not have been a pleasure driving into 80kph winds and I probably would have run out of petrol trying. There was intermittent phone reception and we were all able to briefly catch up with our families. Karen and I were thrilled to hear that Tara and Stella were home and that both were doing well. Later in the night with the winds still blowing it started to rain.

11/6/12

We woke to almost blue skies and no wind. Whatever caused the weather yesterday had moved on which was good, as we are free camping tonight somewhere on the way to Karatha. We packed up and were on the road by 8.50am heading back towards Port Hedland and the Costal Highway. We stopped at an un-named truck stop for lunch then drove to the Herbert Parker Rest Area on the Yule River. Unfortunately the camping spots are limited and there was no room for our two vans. We decided to drive another 30kms to the West Peawah River Rest Area and try our luck there. This time luck was with us and we set up camp next to a patch of Snappy Gum trees. It was a little cloudy but not enough to effect our solar panels too much.

12/6/12

Karen was up early this morning and she made sure Mary-Anne and I were to. It was her birthday!!! The whole Rest Area was also arosed by the continual sound of the mobile phone ringing and Karen receiving birthday calls. When the phone finally stopped ringing we packed up and headed for Roebourne. Somewhere between the Peawah Rest Area and Roebourne a kamakazie bird flew into the windscreen of the Prado with a loud thump. It was propelled over the roof rack and fell onto the road behind us. The next thing we hear over the 2 way from Mary-Anne, 'A bird just dropped dead in front of my car!!!! I nearly wet myself I was laughing that hard and I think Karen did. We arrived at about 10.30am and had a quick drive around town. It is only a small place and a little untidy. We found a garage and decided to refill. After that Karen and Mary-Anne bought fish and chips and we had an early lunch in the car park next to the garage. When our tummies were full we headed out of town to a beach camping spot called Cleaverville. We found the Care Takers caravan and paid for 4 nights. Then it was time to find a place to camp. All the dune top spots had been taken so we searched for ancleared area big enough for the two vans to fit in. Mary-Anne and Karen stayed on the road while I drove the Prado and van through through country that would have been difficult for a Unimog to traverse. After covering the Prado and van with mud I finally found a big enough camp site just behind the dunes and not far from the water. Mary-Anne could see where I was but I told her not to come the way I did as it was too rough. After searching numerous tracks she finally made it to where I was without any dirt or mud on her car or van. When I had both caravans almost set up the Care Taker arrived and told us that a dune top site had just been vacated and we could move onto it if we wanted. We hooked up and followed him to a glorious spot over looking the Indian Ocean. We immediately decided to stay a couple more days.

13/6/12

After a slow morning soaking up the view we drove into Roebourne and visited the Visitor Information Centre. The Information Centre is housed in part of the old Roebourne Jail which has been turned into a museum. We spent a hour or so looking at the displays before we left and went to the Post Office. Then we drove to Point Samson which is about 18kms from Roebourne. It is a seaside town with a port where large ships are loaded with iron ore. We had lunch in a park and then went for a drive around town. We tried to find the jetty where the ships are loaded but public access is denied. We did however find a boat ramp and Yatch Club after driving through what appeared to be a very large scale construction site. There was a beautiful cove next to the boat ramp with a wonderful beach. It was hard to believe that right behind the sand dunes behind the beach and out of sight was the ugly very large construction site. From Point Samson we drove back towards Roebourne and visited Wickham. Wickham is a new town and we believe it was built to house workers in the iron ore industry. There is a shopping centre with Woolworths but not much else. The girls did a small shop and I visited the bottle shop attached to Woolies. I bought some bourbon for the State of Origin that night and found they had the first 4 litre casks of wine we had seen since leaving Queensland. I bought 3 for Karen so she won't drink my beer. Then we drove to the historic port of Cossack. It is a ghost town where old stone building have been restored by the National Trust. It was the original port servicing Roebourne but was nearly destroyed by a cyclone in 1898. Eventually as the ships visiting became larger the port was moved to Point Samson which had a deeper anchorage. Cossack as a town and port died as a result. We had a walk through all the old buildings and soaked up the history. We drove up tank hill and we had a 360 degree view which was wonderful. It was getting late so we drove back to our beach camp and prepared for State of Origin. Unfortunately the result was not good from a Queenslander's perpective but the bourbon was.

De Gray River Rest Area next to the train line

A ship being loaded with iron ore at Port Hedland

Enjoying a beer after a hard day at the Cook Point Caravan Park Port Hedland

The marble bar (Jasper) at Marble Bar

Tea time with a full moon rising at Des Streckfuss Rest Area

Fortescue Falls in Karijini National Park from the rim looking down

The torture track from Fortescue Falls to Circular Pool in Karijini National Park

Mary-Anne and I doing it tough on the near vertical track up from Circular Pool

Karen skipping up the ladder at the top of the track from Circular Pool

Our camp site on the dunes at Cleaverville camping ground

Tuesday 12 June 2012

16/5/12

We left Derby today and made our way to Broome. We didn't know what to expect of Broome and we were all pleasently surprised to find it was a large town with all the amenities. Our first stop, as usual, was the Visitor Information Centre. We found out all we could and made way to the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park. The caravan park is right on Roebuck Bay and nearly all sites have a view of the water. To say we liked it here is an understatement. Broome would have to be the best place we have visited on our trip so far. After settling in we went for a drive around town. Then we found the Woolworths shopping centre and a quick shop was done. Then it was back to our view and many coldies while enjoying the scene before sunset.

17/5/12

We got up early today and Mary-Anne drove her car to the Nissan Dealer to have it serviced. We picked her up and visited Bunnings which was accross the road from the Nissan Dealer. Then we went into town and walked around China Town. I had a hair cut and beard trim and then we had coffee and hot chocolate at a cafe. We came back to the caravan park and I cleaned and cooked some Barramundi Wings that had been given to us by a lovely couple in Derby. While I was cooking the barramundi wings Karen inadvertently left a tap running in the sink with the plug in. The resulting waterfall coming from the rear of the caravan was quite spectacular. All the cupboards and drawers at the rear of the van had to be emptied and dried out. The cupboard with two years supply of toilet paper and paper towels was also flooded. People in the park thought we were having a garage sale when they saw the table standing in the sun loaded with 200 rolls of toilet paper and paper towels. By the time everything in the van was placed in the sun to dry out it was time to eat our Barramundi Wings and they were delicious....thanks Dennis and Linley.

18/5/12

We had a lazy day just enjoying the view. Karen cooked brownies and we had them for morning tea. In the afternoon we went for a drive to the Coles shopping centre which has a Best and Less. Then it was back to the caravan park and the view and a few coldies.

19/5/12

This morning we went into town and walked around the Markets in the grounds of the old Court House building. I thought I had been transported to the Eumundi Markets as there was hippie crap everywhere. I had finished in about five minutes and had to wait for another hour for the girls while they oggled at everything. After the markets we took a drive to Cable Beach and viewed the real Indian Ocean for the first time. The beach is 22km long and has fine white sand like our beaches in Southern Queensland. It was a brilliant day with clear blue skies and no wind. The crystal clear water was a turquoise colour in the shallow area near the beach and darkening shades of blue further out as the water deepened. We then went for a drive to Gantheaume Point which is at the southern end of Cable Beach. It has a lighthouse and fantastic sandstone cliff formations where dinosaur footprints can be seen on a very low tide. I should have had my hiking pole to help me negoiate some of the rocks I had to climb over to reach an area called Anastasia's Pool. This is a circular pool cut into a flat area of sandstone many years ago by a lighthouse keeper. His wife had arthritis and could not walk down to the beach to swim so he build her the pool. The only draw back is that she had to climb over many rocks to get to the pool. What a thoughtful husband! On our way back we stopped at the Broome deep water wharf and walked out on it. The fishing is supposed to be good and the water is about 600 metres deep at the end of the wharf. After the wharf, we returned to the caravan park and had lunch. Later in the afternoon Karen and I went to a Liquorland shop near the town beach. Next to Liquorland, Karen spotted a souvenir shop where she bought a pearl bracelet and I bought a brass compass. Later that evening Karen and Mary-Anne went to church and confessed all their sins. It took them over an hour to obtain absolution. I cleansed myself with a six pack.

20/5/12

We had a lazy morning today before making a quick sortie to Bunnings, Woolworths and Coles. Then it was back to the caravan park for a BBQ lunch at the picnic area high on a point overlooking the town beach and Roebuck Bay. It was hard to drag ourselves away from this wonderful spot but Karen and I had bought a bottle of bourbon and it was waiting for us back at the caravan. This is the first bourbon I've had since I ran out just after crossing the border into the Nancy Territory 2 months ago.

21/5/12

It seems to be the norm here to take things easy and that is exactly what we did again this morning. After lunch we went into town and walked to the heritage listed Old Broome Court House. We were surprised to find that it is still an operating Magistrates Court. Then we walked to The Old Broome Lockup. At the entrance is an old boab tree. A plaque explained the tree was planted by Sgt Henry Thomas in 1897 on the day his son, Fred was born. Unfortunately Fred was killed in action in July 1916 at Pozziers in WW1. Sgt Thomas, who eventually was promoted to the rank of Inspector, died of sunstroke at Broome on 22 December 1920. Then it was a short walk to Pearl Luggers in the heart of Chinatown. There we saw two fully restored pearling luggers on display. We left Chinatown and drove to Bedford Park. In the park there is a War Memorial and a replica of William Dampier's pirate treasure chest that is reportedly buried somewhere in Roebuck Bay. Then it was onto the Broome Historical Society's Museum. This old building was originally a general store but is now filled with all sorts of relics and memorabilia. There are pieces of exploded bombs and wreckage from destroyed allied and japanese war planes on display. A large part of the museum is devoted to the history of the pearling industry which is what Broome is best known for. After leaving the museum we drove back to the caravan park for bourbon and our evening tea.

22/5/12

Today we plan to go to Cable Beach later in the afternoon and have fish and chips for tea on the esplanade overlooking the beach. We hopefully will witness for the first time in our lives the sun setting on the ocean. But before that there were plenty of chores to be done. I spent the whole morning updating our computer diary. Mary-Anne amused herself by naming thousands of photographs she has taken and Karen cleaned out our caravan. At 4.30pm we left the caravan park and drove to Cable Beach. We located the Cable Beach General Store and purchased fish and chips and salad to takeaway. Then it was to the beach where we found a niece big flat sandstone rock from which we could view the sunset while eating our tea. Little did we know that this rock was also the place that 1000 sea gulls usually eat their tea every afternoon. It must have been off pay week for the seagulls because they turned up empty handed and all they wanted to do was share my chips. I don't share my CHIPS!!!! While I kept the seagulls busy Karen and Mary-Anne, both oblivious to my plight, enjoyed their three course meal. I managed to save half my chips, found beek marks in my fish and seagull poo on my soft drink can. At least the sunset was good. This is the first time any of us had seen the sun setting on the water and Mother Nature did her part by allowing perfect conditions to prevail while this event occurred. After the sunset we walked up the beach to where the camel rides were happening. Karen stopped the lead camel train for 5 minutes while she took photos of each camel. I think she was trying to find a pretty one. GOOD LUCK!!! We made the walk back along the beach in the dark and eventually found our car in the crowded car park. It is amasing how many people come here each afternoon to witness the sunset. They must all come from the east coast like us.

23/5/12

This was another lazy day just enjoying the view and the caravan park. I setup the TV in the annex area so we could watch the State of Origin tonight. Later in the afternoon Karen and I went for a walk to Liquorland and bought a bottle of bourbon to celebrate the game. We had an easy tea and enjoyed the game and the bourbons (Queensland WON!!!).

24/5/12

Today we went to the Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Park which is about 15kms out of town. It cost $35.00 each for admission but it was worth it. We had a quick look around and then we joined an organised tour. Before the tour started the guide brought out a baby crocodile and everyone got to have a hold of it. It is amazing how soft the skin is. It was only about 35cm long and the guide explained that a bite from a baby like this one is like slamming your finger in a car door. No wonder he put a hair tie around its jaws. The guide led us to various crocodile enclosures and woke up a few so we could see how quick their reflexes are. They reminded me of me. They are so sneeky and awesome. We spent the rest of the day walking around and seeing all the exhibits. The only downside of the day was knowing that Malcolm Douglas has passed away. It would have been great to meet him. About 6pm tonight Jackie who is a friend of Mary-Anne's daughter Jacinta came to visit. She is living and working in Broome. Mary-Anne was so happy to see her and catch up on all her news.

25/5/12

We had an early start today so I could drive the Prado to the local Toyota Dealer for a service. Karen and Mary-Anne caught up on their washing and I updated the diary and backed up all our photos and reports. The dreaded call came about 12.30pm that the car was ready to be picked up. I sat down and asked how much and $842 was the reply. I'll have to forgo a few cartons of beer to keep the budget in tact. In the afternoon I helped Mary-Anne wash her car and Karen washed 3 sides of our caravan. About 5.30pm Dave from the caravan opposite came for a beer and during our conversation we discovered that we are in the same line of work. The only difference is he really is retired and I am only pretending. I supposed I was pretending at work for most of the time so what does it matter.

26/5/12

This morning Karen and I washed the annex and the fourth side of the van before we left the caravan park. Mary-Anne refuelled and we were on our way towards Port Hedland. We stopped at Goldwire Rest Area and had lunch. About 2pm we arrived at Stanley Rest Area where we planned to spend the night. We found a concrete slab big enough for both caravans to fit on and setup. I noticed oil dripping from under Mary-Anne's Patrol and I opened the bonnet to have a look. There was more oil everywhere under the bonnet than in the middle east. I looked but couldn't find the cause. It was decided then that we would stay here until Monday morning so Mary-Anne could ring the Nissan Dealership in Broome where she had her car serviced and see if they would help.

27/5/12

There was not much to do today so Karen came up the idea of cooking pikelets and we had them with jam and cream. I love roughing it!!! Later in the afternoon an elderly couple, Jim and Audrey arrived with their Landcruiser towing a small Kedron caravan and they camped not far from us. We got to talking and they are from Bundaberg. They have travelled over a lot of dirt roads and camped out in the desert on their way through.

28/5/12

Mary-Anne and I got up early and drove 30kms to find phone signal. She rang Nissan and they gave her the run around. Then she rang RACQ and they put her onto RACWA who organised a tow truck to come from Broome to tow her Patrol. The tow truck arrived about 12.30pm and Mary-Anne and her car left with it. Karen and I stayed to mind the vans while she was gone. The problem was diagnosed late in the afternoon as a split oil pipe to the turbo. RACQ arranged a cabin at the Roebuck Bay caravan park and she enjoyed the ocean view once more. However without a car and having no provisions she could only manage 2 Trail Bars for tea.

29/5/12

Good news day for Mary-Anne. She had to get rid of the Patrol? No the news wasn't that good, but the problem had been fixed and she could pickup her car. RACQ arranged a taxi and she was on her way to Stanley Rest Area by 10am. She arrived at the rest area at 12.30pm to the cheers of everyone there and a ticker tape parade but on by three crows pulling plastic bags and papers out of the rubbish bins. It was my unpleasant duty to inform Mary-Anne that Karen and I had finished off the last of the pikelets, jam and cream.

30/5/12

We could finally leave Stanley today and we were on the road by 9am. We have planned one more free camp before Port Hedland at De Grey Rest Area. After a huge drive of 325ms we arrived about 2.30pm to find every caravan in the world camped there. We walked down to the river bank and couldn't find any sites big enough for two caravans. However we did find a large cleared area next to the railway line that would do the job. I nearly reversed the caravan into a small ditch but with Karen's expert guidance a diaster was averted. We hoped that an iron ore train would come through so we could see if they are really 2 kilometres long. We got our wish about 8pm. It is amasing how quiet trains are in these other states. Queensland trains would have rattled the windows out of our caravans but this train ran past with only the hum of four diesel engines to break the silence.